Rope Rap
Plastic Wrap Mummification - Part Two

by Paul "Papa Bear" Sehm

from Leather Journal Issue
Issue 17

For the few of readers who did not see the last issue of Rope Rap and The Leather Journal, all I can say is, find one and read it! (Issue #16) This is the second segment of a two-part series.

I will not go into a long review this time so you will need to refer to Issue #16. Besides, by now I hope you all have wrapped one or two things besides a slab of bacon.

As you can see, I am not wrapping George (Furr) this time, so, I would like you to meet Dave. Dave is quite an enthusiast when it comes to bondage. His home range is Texas, although Dave does come to California now and then. So keep your eyes open everyone ? this one does get around!

The head is started right after the body is wrapped. If you do the legs and feet first you will have trouble with balancing him, so for now keep his legs free and do the head I first.

I started with half-rolls of plastic wrap at his eyes and forehead. The first couple of turns around the head are the most important. First, make sure that the edge of the wrap is not cutting in the bridge of the nose.

Second, it should be loose enough that the nose is not depressed. (And, of course, that it is high enough so that the nose and mouth are not covered. There are methods of doing this covering the mouth and nose), but they are dangerous and I cannot recommend these. Those of you who wish to go further, go carefully, please! We have had a couple of accidents in the Leather/SM world recently and we don't want anymore.)

Third, The ears must be pressed back against the head, not folded forward. This hurts and is neither sexy nor sensual.

Fourth, The hair and/or beard should be considered, too. Arrange them so that they are tucked out of the way. Long hair has a tendency to get pulled in the plastic wrap if you are not careful. If your subject is clean-shaven and bald, it's no problem.

After two or three turns around the eyes and forehead, go around the back of the head (Low, at about the base of the neck). Then come forward at an upward angle, over the cheek and the bridge of the nose, over the eyes to the temple. Go around the back or the head high on the crown and around to the front again. You should be as high on the temple as you were on his opposite temple. Now go down his face, covering the temple, bridge of the nose and cheek. Continue down and around the head to the nape of the neck.

You should be where you started, at the back of his head and low at the nape of his neck. You should see a "figure eight over his upper face and head. (Photo A) Go over these two or three times. Be careful to keep the wrap away from his mouth and nostrils and make sure it is not getting too tight over the bridge of the nose.

Do not just ask the bottom if it is too tight, he will probably say, "I am okay." That is not enough. Sometimes a good or eager to-please bottom thinks he is a tough gay, and says the wrong thing. Slide your finger along side his nose, reaching up to the eye socket, crook it slightly and give the wrap a good pull outward. This will stretch the wrap and give some added room where it is needed. In fact, this is a good solution if any section becomes too tight or too much pressure is applied. Most plastic wrap will stretch enough to give just the right amount of ease. Now we can move down the chin. (Photo B)

With the half-roll high on the back of the head, come down and forward under the chin, Go around the chin, upward to the top of the head and continue back down and around, under the chin. Repeat this three or four times. Move the bands forward and back, overlapping them so that the top of the head is completely enclosed. (Photo C) Be careful that the wrap does not slip over the chin and cover the mouth. This is easily done by pulling the wrap down under the chin with your finger at the same time you are wrapping around the head. (Photo D) Ensure that the wrap is not too tight over the jawbone. Pull out on the wrap with your finger as you did on the nose.

Next, we move to the neck, which is the hardest part. You have to catch the edges of head wrapping and the edges of the body wrapping at the same time. If the body wrappings are too low off the shoulders, or the head wrappings are too high on the head, you are going to have to make two or three overlapping turns around the neck.

I Start high at the nape of the neck and come around to the front, catch the edges of the head wrapping as much as possible. Turn around the neck two or three times, working downward. At the third turn you should be near the edge of the body wrap. Ease up on the tension, just kind of lay the wrap over the upper edge of the body wrap. The next two turns around the neck should be worked higher and with a little more tension as you go. The neck does not have to be worked too tight. It is best if it is a little too loose rather than too tight.

From the back, come up around the head, over the face, to the top of the head. Wrap the top of the head by winding the plastic wrap around the top of the head in a vertical position. You will start to get a crown of loose edges of the unattached wrappings. (Photo E) When you have built these up as high as you can, fold them down in a neat order over the top of the head.

The roll is then brought down to the chin again. Use the finger method (Photo D) to keep the wrapping from being too tight on the jawbone. Move up over the top of the head and down under the chin, moving the bands forward as you go. When you have crossed over to the front half of the head, you have to go from the top-front of the head to the nape of the neck. As you wind the bands forward and down the forehead, use the curve on the back of the head to keep the wrapping in place. You should stop when the bottom edge of the wrap is at the bridge of the nose, right where you started. Break of the roll and the head is wrapped.

One last part: take a large roll (one that has not been cut) make several turns high around the shoulders. Just like you did on the top of the head. Work these turns as high as you can without slipping off the top of the shoulders. Keep the unattached edge from getting tangled. (Photo F) When you have as much as you can, carefully fold the loose edges over the shoulders. It should also catch the neck turns all the way around your subject's neck.

Take the wide, uncut wrap and go over the shoulders, front-to-back. (See Photos D and E on Rope Rap of Issue #16) Secure these with a horizontal band from the top of the shoulders to at least the waist, or better yet, all the way down to the ankles. With this article, and the one from Issue #16, you will have all you need for a complete mummification scene. Be careful! An accident can happen very unexpectedly. Never leave your subject alone! If he looks like he's in trouble, don't just take his word that he is okay. Some will say they are okay when they are not. And if he says, "stop," or, "get me out," do not delay. You can always catch your breath and try it again.

David and I went farther than just a little mummification. We got out the duct tape and went on from there. I do not have enough space in this issue to tell you about it, or how it was done, so you guys will have to wait for the next issue of The Leather Journal and part three of this two-part series. It you want to know that David was having fun, just took at his face in Photo G.