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Cross ContaminationDisinfecting The Dungeon The Right WayBy NorischeMost dungeons hold many dangers, by their very design they encourage pain and suffering. However, no matter how much pain we inflict on the poor souls trapped behind the foreboding walls of our playroom, one thing that we never want is to make someone suffer unintentionally. For this reason you must do all that is within your power to make sure that the dungeon or playroom, what ever term you use, and the instruments of torture that you use are kept clean and as sanitary as possible. I would like to state that Clorox bleach will not get rid of all germs, it will get rid of several contaminants but it was not designed to kill some of the germs and bacteria that might be present in a dungeon. There are several misconceptions about the disinfecting power of alcohol as well. The way it was explained to me is "Alcohol is better than water, and bleach is about the same as alcohol, but neither kill the Hepatitis virus or the virus that causes HIV/AIDS". When I did research on this information I found that it was basically true, the information I was able to gather stated that Clorox is effective in 30 seconds against pseudomonas, salmonella, staph, rhinovirus, Hepatitis-A and Influenza A2/Hong Kong virus, it does not mention Hepatitis – B, or HIV however (http://www.twinsupply.com/itemCLO35417.html). If you have nothing else, then by all means use bleach or alcohol, it is better than using nothing at all. The first thing I would like to point out is that there is no absolutely sterile area short of a decontamination chamber, and unless you happen to have one of those built into your home somewhere, you will always have some contaminants present. The goal is not to decontaminate your house; the goal is to reduce the level of possible contaminants to an acceptable and medically safe level. Much of the surfaces that are present within any play area are porous and hence, difficult to clean properly or sanitize. Stainless steel is 90% resistant to contamination, if cleaned and maintained properly. Other surfaces, such as leather, fabric, wood, and concrete, are nowhere near as resistant, and due to this fact extra precautions are suggested. Rope – Rainbow Rope.com suggest sterilizing your rope or rope toys by putting your rope into a mesh bag, (the type used for nylons or delicate fabrics,) and throwing it into the wash on normal warm cycle, but add one half cup chlorine bleach to the wash to aid in sterilization. If your rope is colored or this is the first time you have washed it I suggest you go to their site and review the procedure they suggest prior to washing your supplies http://www.rainbowrope.com/wash.html. Removable fabric – Follow washing procedures as directed on the label of the fabric if available. If the fabric is color safe then add half-cup chlorine bleach to the wash. If you are unsure if the fabric is color safe or not, assume that it is not, you can wash the fabric on warm, normal cycle; and add one half cup vinegar to the water, another suggestion is the use of Clorox II as an alternative to vinegar for colored fabric (although I am not sure the level of sanitization either will accomplish). Also there are some specific medical disinfectants that are designed to disinfect fabric such as Controll III, it is safe to use on most fabrics (read instructions) you simply add a small amount directly to your laundry. Non – removable fabric – Again follow any available washing instructions. If none are available you can use standard Lysol, it will not sanitize the fabric but it will assist reducing the level of bacterial contaminants on the surface of the fabric. This does not by any means make this surface germ free, or sanitary. Leather – There are several leather soaps that are available, but to be quite honest... if the cleaner is delicate enough not to damage the leather then it is too delicate to kill the germs. Using a leather cleaner that is available on the market today can help cut the level of contaminants, spraying all surfaces thoroughly with Lysol or a similar disinfectant. (Note: make sure the disinfectant is one that is rated to kill TB, HIV & Hep B, C, D It will say on the can if it is CDC approved to kill those things), the surface of the leather needs to be wet for 5 to 10 minutes to achieve an adequate cleaning. Then allow the leather to air dry. Once it has dried the leather may be brittle hence you will wish to use a moisturizing agent to restore some of the previous luster to your leather. I do not wish to mislead you into believing that leather can be thoroughly cleaned without some degree of damage to the leather itself. The cleaners that can successfully decontaminate surfaces do so by breaking down the protein bonds, and since leather and fur for that matter were living tissue at one point, these cleaners will also breakdown the protein bonds within the leather and fur as well. This process will make the leather dry, brittle and eventually weaken the leather, rendering it unusable. My suggestion is if you are worried about contamination, use something other than leather… plastic, rubber, naugahyde, and vinyl are just a few of the alternatives available. Also if you just can't give up the leather, I do suggest that if there is a possibility of contamination by bodily fluids that you purchase separate toys for each individual that you play with, do not risk cross contamination. Plastic – Most surface cleaners will do an adequate job of cleaning plastic, if there are additional concerns you may wish to soak the plastic in disinfectant for 10 minutes in order to secure its decontamination. Please use logic if you do soak the item, some cleaners are quite strong and may damage some portions of the item. Something I would like to interject at this time, cleaning dildos or butt plugs. The material most dildos and butt plugs are made of is rather fragile, please read the instructions provided by the manufacturer prior to cleaning. One thing that I find that works very well is to use a condom on these items; it cuts down on the clean up and the risk of contamination. Also it is wise not to share such items with other individuals, the risk is too great. Stainless steel/Metal – SaniZide Plus is an excellent disinfectant to use on metal surfaces, simply follow the instructions on the product, you may use it as a soak as well as a spray. If you do a lot of medical play and you are truly concerned about contamination, the ultimate in sterilization is to use a medical autoclave, the cost can be quite high but if you want to be absolutely sure that your items are sterile it is the best way to go. You can also boil the metal items for 10 minutes minimum; you will need to place the items in sterile containers or sterile bags after you have completed this process to ensure that you maintain that level of safety. Wood - If the wood is unsealed the possibility of complete disinfecting is slim at best. Wood is a porous substance and hence to clean it thoroughly would require soaking the wood in disinfectant for at least ten minutes. This, however, may damage the wood itself; if you are unsure of risk then you should assume that there will be damage. Something I would like to mention at this point is canes; rattan, and bamboo are very delicate and cannot withstand exposure to harsh chemicals. Therefore I suggest that if you find that you have contaminated a cane, simply give the cane to the individual whose fluids have marked the cane as a trophy and purchase a new one. Glass/Mirrors – There are several excellent cleaners out there that you can use on glass, any that are appropriate to use on metal or ceramic should work fine on glass or mirrors. If a residue is left behind you can eliminate the residue by using a 50% vinegar and water solution, you can use newspaper to wipe the surface so that you wont get lint. Rubber – Use the same basic steps to clean rubber as you would with vinyl, or plastic. Concrete/Cement – Concrete/cement is porous and is hard to maintain a high level of sanitation, however it can be done. Simply use any industrial strength cleaner/disinfectant that specifically states that it may be used on concrete or cement, (Note: make sure the disinfectant is one that is rated to kill TB, HIV & Hep B, C, D It will say on the container if it is CDC approved to kill those things). Make sure that the surface is completely wet and remains so for at least 10 minutes. Carpet - The use of a steam cleaner with the appropriate disinfectant solutions added to the cleaning solution is the best thing I can recommend for carpets. I would like to stress however that it is very difficult to completely clean carpet due to the weave of the carpet and due to the fact that most carpets have a mat underneath them that holds in contaminants quite well. Deep steam cleaning and the liberal use of a fabric safe disinfectant is the best thing that I can recommend. There are several cleaners out there that are industrial grade that can help with cross contamination control within your dungeon. I have listed just a few of the available cleaners and disinfectants and the website where they may be purchased. One thing I would suggest is to check out any product you are considering using, compare the different ones available and choose the one that fits your needs. If you have someone that has asthma, or respiratory problems you might want to take that into consideration when you make your purchase, some of the industrial strength cleaners can be quite harsh on the lungs and can trigger respiratory distress.
Leather Master Cleaners
Mar-V-Cide® Disinfectant Fungicide Germicide Virucide http://www.wmmarvyco.com/Mar-V-Cide1.html
SaniZide Plus germicidal solution, 16 oz.
Environmental surface germicidal solution, 16 oz. bottle w/trigger -
Sugg. Ret. $10.99 http://www.first-aid-product.com/industrial/germicidal-solution.htm
MVAP : Medical Supply
Size Order Number Price http://www.mvapmed.com/2003_files/disinfectants.htm
Sani-Cloth SANI-CLOTH HB is a Dual Chain Quaternary Solution Impregnated in a wiping cloth. Sani-Cloth HB kills the Hepatitis B virus and over 100 other microorganisms including HIV, Staph, E-coli and Salmonella. It contains no alcohol and can safely be used on most hard, non-porous surfaces to reduce the risks associated with cross contamination. SANI-CLOTH HB is also safe for use on vinyl and Naugahyde and is effective against mold and mildew. Key Points: SANI-CLOTH HB is the first and only registered and approved wiping cloth on the market that kills the Hepatitis B virus (HBV). SANI- CLOTH HB also kills over 100 other microorganisms including E-coli, Staph, Salmonella and HIV. SANI-CLOTH HB contains no alcohol. It is nonflammable, non-corrosive, non-caustic and non-toxic. SANI-CLOTH HB directions for use are unique in that they highlight the fact that microorganisms are actually removed from the surface by wiping with the towelette, and are killed in the towelette. SANI-CLOTH HB is EPA registered and approved: (EPA Reg #61178-4-9480) AREAS OF USE: SANI-CLOTH HB is excellent for use in: • Restaurants and FoodService •Day Care Centers • Laundromats •Fast Food Chains•Nursing Homes•Snack Bars•Supermarkets•Offices•Cafeterias•Schools• Vendors•Health Clubs/Spas/Gyms•Salons And anywhere the control of cross contamination is important: Wipe SANI-CLOTH HB onto: •Tables & Chairs • Kitchen Fixtures • Furniture • Toilet Seats • Bathroom Fixtures • Light Fixtures • Counters • Walls • Telephones • Sinks • Door Knobs • Toys & similar hard, non porous surfaces. Pack of 10 PDI® SANI-CLOTH HB®: Pack of 10 (5" x 8") $19.97 http://www.safetycentral.com/gerdiswipdis.html
1730M ValueKlave by TuttnauerIt ain't pretty, but it gets the job done!
TIPS: If you are sensitive to cleaning products make sure you cover all exposed skin, wear an appropriate breathing mask, and always make sure of adequate ventilation when using any strong cleaning agent. TIPS: Always read any instructions supplied by the manufacturer, and follow any directions precisely. Some cleaning fluids are toxic and could lead to injury if not used properly. TIPS: Never mix chemical, some chemicals have deadly effects if combined, such as chlorine bleach and ammonia, the fumes from this combination are lethal. Also a quick note, if you have ferrets do not use bleach to clean your floors, ferret urine is full of ammonia and will react in the same manner as bleach and ammonia combined. TIPS: Store all cleaners and chemicals in their original container, follow all precautions when storing chemicals, also dispose of all empty containers, do not reuse the container. When it comes to the health and safety of our loved ones and ourselves we must take every precaution available to us to ensure that there is minimal risk to all. There are no guarantees in life, but why take unnecessary risks with ones health. As with everything this is my opinion, take what you will and leave the rest. If you wish to contact me, my email address is Norisch1@mchsi.com. If you wish to see more of my work you may find a complete listing of all my writings at…. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Norisches_Quill/?yguid=99788111 in the files section. Norische |
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