Bootblacking Basics

Created by izzy and suka ©2004

Supplies

You can find serviceable items for your kit at almost any store and buy your high quality items at shoe repair shops. This is a limited and basic list.

Polish	Some of the more commonly used and easy to obtain polishes are Lincoln, Angelus, and Kiwi. Bootblacks may have different preferences based on their individual techniques

Oils	Huberd’s Shoe Grease is the most commonly used on oil tanned leathers and is made of beeswax and pine tar. It darkens lighter colored leather, so if you are moisturizing light leather, use a product like Chelsea Leather Food, Apache Conditioner or Kiwi Leather Lotion.

Brushes;	Use a different brush for each color of wax. There are three types you will want to include in your supply kit: Initial large buffing brush (must have natural bristles) Soaping brush (dauber) Catwalk brush- this is actually a nail brush or even an old toothbrush (for those hard-to-reach areas between the sole and the boot)

Miscellaneous;	Leather Dye- for scuffed/worn leather and soles Extra laces- get the 72” and make sure they are nylon so you can cut them to size and melt the end. Armor All- for plastic shoes and soles White vinegar- for cleaning salt stains before soaping Small spray bottle for water Utility knife

Cloths;	Washcloths T-shirt strips or birdseye diapers Buffing cloths

The Basics

Cleaning	The number one secret to a great finished product is starting with clean boots. I use Fiebing’s Saddle Soap though there are many great brands. Using your soft horsehair soaping brush, or dauber and a little soap, add just enough water to create a good lather and scrub the entire boot. If the boot has laces, take the laces out so that you can get the tongue, too. Dry the boot completely and quickly before the soap dries. Use your stiffer brush (nail brush or toothbrush) along where the leather upper meets the sole; a lot of dirt gets in there, and leaving it there is just lazy. If you are working on a pair of boots that has feet in them, treat the drying-rub down as a massage. Now is also a great time for some boot or foot worship, if you wish...

Applying polish;	Polish goes on smoother and more even if the wax is warm. Some people flame their wax in the can and some flame the wax on the boot. I advocate using your bare hands when doing boots while applying waxes and oils. The heat from your hands melts the wax/oil into the leathers and you can feel where you have been and where you need to go. Apply the wax in sections; I do each boot the same as part of my ritual to keep track of where I've been. To let the wax dry a little after application, I apply the wax to the right boot first, then the left boot. By the time I’m finished with the left boot, I’m ready to buff the right boot and then the left.

Buffing;	Start with the densest horsehair brushes you can find. Some people lick the boot or the brush as they’re buffing and some mist the boot with water. Do a second brushing, and then buff with a cloth. Each round of buffing you will see brighter results but don’t over-buff. You'll get to the point where you will be removing too much wax and dulling the boot. Finish up with a your softest buffing cloth. Some people use nylon stockings as a final buff. Don’t use polyester, as it seems to rub the polish off.

Oiling;	Some boots get oiled and not polished. Oil treated boots are soft with a matte finish. Once again, when applying oil, use your bare hands. The oil goes on beautifully and melts in fabulously. Taking your time oiling a boot takes less time than polishing it, so you can stretch out the ritual, and really get into it. Don’t just think about the boot; think about the foot that is inside the boot. I get comments all the time from my customers telling me how good it feels.

It's all in the details

It's the little things that make a good job a great job

Before starting, roll up pants and chaps out of the way and while working, watch out for white socks!
Dressing the edges of the soles- you can use leather dye (I use Fiebing’s) and run it carefully along the edge of the soles with the applicator. After it dries, polish and buff
Re-dyeing scuffs - apply leather dye before polishing
Watch the white (or yellow for Doc Martens) stitching along the soles. Use neutral polish on the stitching (and even on the lower part of the boot, if you wish) to keep the black off the stitches
Get the lacing right! Pay attention to how they laced their boots before you take them out and duplicate it.
Talk to your Top/Customer! Ask them what they want, what they have done in the past, what they expect. Maybe they just want their abused combats oiled. Maybe they want their oil-tanned boots to be a sticky mess and polished and not oiled and let them know if a glass shine isn't realistic.

One Step Beyond

Keep in mind how you will be using your supplies. Are you just going to be blacking for at home? Will you be working in a bar where you might have lots of customers? Which is more important, portability or style? Whatever your needs are, keep in mind a few things: keep your bottles and cans tightly closed to prevent spills and dry-out, keep your rags and towels clean, and keep your bristles from getting crushed. Learn about the products you use and how they work. When confronted with a task or situation not previously encountered, that knowledge will help you think what is going to work and what won’t, giving you the tools to resolve the issue.

Including yourself in the bootblack community is an invaluable resource whether you are a beginning bootblack or an oldtimer. Everyone has something to teach and there is always something to learn. Join the bootblack forum on Yahoo Groups. It represents a large and cohesive gathering of bootblacks worldwide and is an incredible resource of information.