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Bootblacking 101 By bob Ehrlich, Jr.
by bob Ehrlich, Jr., International Mr. Bootblack 1999
Supplies you will need:
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Can of wax, matching the color of the boots to be done. I recommend Kiwi brand;
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Polishing brush. Horsehair works best;
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One can or bottle of saddle soap (or leather conditioner);
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Source of water i.e. wet rags, water bottle, etc.;
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Polishing cloth;
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Terry cloth;
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Source of fire i.e. matches, lighter;
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Toothbrush; and
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Dental Floss. (just kidding).
Getting started...
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Roll up pants or leathers away from boot;
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Remove laces (if they have them);
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Clean boot well, using water and saddle soap. To do this, wet boot thoroughly, and apply saddle soap. Loosen dirt with a wet cloth or your hands, whichever
feels more comfortable to you. And with a semi-wet cloth, remove the dirt and saddle soap from the boot. This is probably the most important step to doing a
"Great Boot";
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Using your source of fire, light your can of wax until it envelops the can. Then put out the flame by using the lid of the can - or your can just blow it out;
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Emerge your fingers into the hot wax and rub the wax into your hands. You just want to coat your hands, but do not need to over coat them, as most of the wax that is applied
to the boot will be removed later. You then transfer the wax from your hands to the boots, covering all the leather thoroughly, working it well into the leather. You need to
pay a little extra attention to the creases in the boot, especially on the tops/fronts (the toe area) where most creases will form. One note of caution: Look at the
stitching around the sole of the boot, some are black and some are white. If the stitching is black, dip your toothbrush into the wax and run the bristles along the
stitching. Then, run your fingers along the stitching as well. If the stitching is white, not only do you NOT use your toothbrush, but you need to avoid the stitching
completely! If you get wax on white stitching, you need to use a "clean" toothbrush with saddle soap to remove. DO NOT LET THIS HAPPEN!
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Clean your hands, using saddle soap and water;
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Using your polishing brush, brush the boot to a shine;
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Use your polishing cloth and add the final touches to the shine. There are some boots that have very coarse, grainy characteristics. If this is the case, the polishing cloths
will actually dull the boot, and you will be able to tell immediately. If this happens, rebrush the boot and skip this step;
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Re-lace boots (if needed); and
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Roll pants and/or leathers back to their proper positions.
OPTIONAL ITEMS FOR LEATHER CARE:
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Hand-held wax applicator, for those of you who simply CAN'T get those fingernails dirty!
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Hubbard's Boot Grease, available at Mr. S Leather (San Francisco), which can be ordered by phone or online. Also available at Stomper's Boots;
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Boot Grease should be used when you have a new pair of boots, or if you have a boot that is grainy and coarse. There are some leathers that just do not shine. If the
boots are new, use the boot grease and wait at least three days for the leather to absorb the grease. Then, you may wax the boot;
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Edge Dressing to be applied around the soles of the boot. Edge dressing comes in a bottle with an applicator. This only needs to be done every once in a while, as it will
last a long time (unless the wearer is particularly "hard" on the boot); and
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Leather Dye - used when a boot has a permanent scuff or scratches that will not be concealed by using your wax. If you use this product, be sure to do the entire boot.
FOR OTHER LEATHER NEEDS:
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Coats, chaps, hats and other leathers - clean like you would do boots, using saddle soap and water. Then rub on Hubbard's boot grease for a lustrous shine. If you
chose, you may also use Mink Oil (which seems to be a preference by many); and
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For latex - clean with warm, soapy water. Then apply Black Beauty and rub off with non-linting cloth. (A bandana works great). Then spray Kingco's spray and
watch the shine come forth! This product is also available at Mr. S Leathers.
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