Plastic Wrap Mummification
by Paul "Papa Bear" Sehm
Leather Journal Issue
The other day I was playing with an old playmate, who at the
time seemed a little loud. So, instead of the usual rope I
got out the plastic wrap and started to do a number on him.
He had a great time and after it was all over and I cut him
out he said something that amazed me:
"I didn't know that you were into this, tool You only talked
about rope and stuff like that. Can you do other things too?"
Well, to answer your question, yes I can, and do.
I mentioned it to Dave Rhodes and he thought it would be a
terrific idea to veer off from rope for a while and do some
other kind of bondage.
This article and the next one will deal with plastic wrap,
duct tape and one or two related things. Got to keep your
attention with something different.
Saran Wrap is only the brand name of the best known product.
Any plastic food wrap (plastic food?) will do just as well
with a few adjustments as you go.
Saran Wrap, and the better grades of its kind tend to be
heavier and stronger. The generic stuff is thinner, but
easier to handle. The cost is about the same. You will
use less of the better brand and more of the cheap shit.
It comes in different lengths and widths. 100 square feet
and 200 square feet seem to be available in more brands.
Larger rolls tend to be awkward to handle, especially when
working in hard to reach areas.
How much you want to start with depends on the way you want
to work. I would say that you'd be safe it you bought three
200 foot rolls. You do not want to come up short at the end.
Start by cutting one roll in half. This is best done with a
sharp knife as cleanly as you can. Any tears and rips along
the cut edge will give you nothing but trouble. If it tears
on a diagonal as you unroll it there is a tear or barb. Make
a razor cut on the edge to get a clean cut.
When you proceed with the wrapping keep the roll unwinding
from the bottom of the roll and you will find that it is
easier to handle.
Also, I am right handed. It is easier for me to work left
to right. If you are a south paw, you may find it better
the other way. Or better yet, wrap both way ? it won't hurt.
Now, this is George, also known as Furr. If you don't know
him from all the usual places, you might look to find this
furry cub bear in one of the early Rope Rap columns. If you
like cub bears and are a bear yourself, you might want to
drop a line to Furr and say "howdy." I would be
happy to pass all fan mail along. (See address at the end
of this story.) l used the new colored plastic wrap (red/pink)
in this scene. This was to make it visible in the photos. For
private sessions I much prefer the clear.
I start with one of the full rolls of wrap. The half roll
will be used much later. Wrap the arms separately first.
Start near the armpits and work down. Wind the wrap out
past the end of the fingers and break off. Oops! Not the
fingers ? the plastic wrap! Roll out about a foot of wrap,
hold the roll firmly in one hand and the wrapped portion
in the other and slowly pull on the roll. It will stretch
and cling to itself and then break in a fairly straight line.
You will have a roll-end you can find and roll out easily.
The body comes next. Wrap it separately, much like you did the
arms. Start at the armpits and work your way down to just below
the end of the fingers. That is if the arms are at your subject's
sides. You can put the arms in a number of positions, but for now,
let's keep it simple.
You will find that by pulling on the unwinding roll as you go
that the wrap stretches and conforms to the contours of the body.
It also clings to itself better, too.
By wrapping the arms and body separately it keeps the arms and
hands from moving under the wrapping. The arms will stick firmly
to the body wrapping and will not move. If you do not follow
this step first and wrap the arms and body as one unit, the
victim/subject will be able to move their arms and fingers
under the wrapping.
With the arms straight at the sides, wrap the arms and body
together. Start at the top of the arms just under where the
shoulders break - the higher, the better. Work down to the
end of the fingers again and make sure you got the fingers
Now got the half roll. You want to go over the top of the
shoulders at a diagonal. Start at the right hip, come up
to the left shoulder near the base of the neck. Come down
the back to the right hip and break off. Do the same on
the other side. Start at the front of the left hip, come
up over the shoulder as on the right and down the back to
the left hip and break off.
Now the hard part! Start at the right hip like before, but
come up the body a little more to the outside shoulder. You
want to catch the edge of the first band around the arms
and chest. Continue down the back to the right hip. Do
likewise on the other side. If the shoulders are too
broad, or the half rolls are too short, then a third
band of wrap will be needed. It is important that these
shoulder bands are overlapping and pulled taut enough
to cling together.
The diagonal shoulder bands are secured by a tight,
horizontal wrapping, starting at the top of the shoulders
and winding down all the way to the ankles. At this point,
the legs are drawn together and the wrapping is pulled
good and tight. Care must be taken to ensure you do not
topple your subject. (The tool will fall like a log and
will probably land on the head first!) Be careful! (Editor's
note: ft is wise to have another person on hand to steady
the subject while you are in the process of wrapping to
At this point, you can go back and add one or two layers,
keeping the winding taut and even. It you are using the
inexpensive wrap, about three layers will do it.
The subject should be quite stiff and straight. You should
be able to take your subject by the shoulders and carefully
lay the person on their back. The subject will lie down in
one piece with surprisingly little bending.
Take a pillow, or the like, and place it under the legs,
just below the knees. This will raise the feet off the floor,
just high enough to pass the roll under the ankles and feet.
Use the half-rolls on the feet. Start at about half way down
the shin. This will tie into the leg wrappings securely. Wrap
down to the end of the toes loosely. The feet are like your
hands, only more so ? they don't like to be squeezed. The
loose ends of the wrap are tucked under the toes and two
or three layers are wrapped around them. End up by going
up the log and tearing off.
The body wrap is now complete. Furr said, "NO,"
when it came to wrapping his head. And that's okay, too.
That will take a special article of its own, anyway.
What do you do now? If you are into spanking, you'll be
surprised at the sensations you can get. One thing to do
is cut out hole to access the nipples and/or cock. Using
a pair of scissors, make sure the holes are not too big.
After you are done with the appendages, ft is easy to
rewrap them with a couple more layers.
When it comes time to release your subject, take a pair
of scissors and start at the toes. Cut up from the toes,
up the legs and to the groin, using the space between the
legs as a safety margin. At the groin, lift up on the
scissors as you cut to keep the scissors away from your
subject's body. Slowly work your way up to the neck in
one long cut.
Cut along the top of the shoulders and down the sides
to free the arms, pulling back the wrapping as you go.
Cut between the feet at the toes, working below and
behind the feet. Presto! You're done and he is out!
Do not be surprised if there is a change in your subject.
This can be a very heavy trip. Save the head until after
my article in the next issue of The Leather Journal After
you do one or two mummifications my way, try a couple your
way. For the novice this can be an overwhelming experience.
We don't want to scare them off the first time.
If you have any questions on this or anything to do with
rope bondage, or any kind of bondage, drop me a line and
I will. try to help.